What is Sharp?

Sharp is something that will cut: it has a thin edge and a fine point. A sharp edge is not blunt or rounded. It is smooth, continuous and thin.

Is your knife sharp?

Magazine test: slice a folded magazine page. A sharp blade will easily slice the paper.

Food test: The ultimate edge will grab onto the skin of a tomato or onion. If the blade slides off the edge (or pressure is required), it's dull.

Order Supplies:

All that you need is a hone and a water stone.

Bob recommends Japanese water stones because they are simple to use and will provide excellent control to obtain a razor sharp edge. The stones come in various sizes: start with a low grit number and work your way up to a finer grit.

Click here to order supplies.

Honing 101

A hone is a regular maintenance tool to be used as often as you feel necessary. It's purpose is to align the blade's edge and increases efficiency.


The trick is right pressure and right angle. Easy guides:

Pressure: Grab your knife by the handle and press the blade on a kitchen scale until you reach 4-6lbs of pressure.

Angle: Hold the blade against the hone and place a matchbook in between the hone and the blade.

Step-by-Step

Anchor the tip of the hone on a cutting board.

Place the edge of the blade against the hone at a 12-15 degree angle.

Put your finger at the heel of the blade, and press into the steel.

Keeping the angle, pull the blade down in an arching motion from heel to tip.

Repeat 4-8 times on each side of the blade, moving from moderate pressure (4-6lbs) to lighter pressure.

When finished, do the magazine test or onion test to check your work.

Water Stones

When the hone no longer brings the edge back to the level of sharpness you desire, it is time to use a water stone to make a new edge.

Start with a lower grit stone (removes material and makes a bur or wire edge). Then move to a higher grit stone to polish.

The trick is maintaining a consistent angle and keeping even pressure across the blade (see guides for honing above).

Step-by-Step

Preparing the Wet Stone

Submerge the stone in water for 10 minutes.

When the bubbles stop, take the stone out of the water and set the stone on a flat surface.

Stoning the Blade

Use the same 12-15 degree angle as with the hone.

If you're right handed, hold the handle in your right hand and spread your left fingers across the blade for even pressure.

Keeping that angle, move the blade straight back and forth or make an arcing motion across the stone.

Flip the blade and repeat on the other side.

When you can feel the wire edge, it's time to move to a finer grit stone to polish.

Polishing the Blade

With a finer grit stone, repeat as above, lightening pressure as you go.

After using the finer grit stone and while it is still wet, scrub it with the Gold stone to create a slurry on the surface for extra polish. Then, repeat as above with light pressure.

When you're finished, wipe the metal residue off of your blade, rinse and dry the stones.

Care: Water Stones

Maintenance
Keep your stones clean and cutting easily. The finer grit stones (2000 grit and higher) build metal residue that needs to be cleaned. After using the stone, and while still wet, scrub with the Gold Surfacing stone. This will create a 'slurry' on the surface. Sharpen the blade for a few strokes in the slurry for extra polish.

Keep your stone flat. Wet stones tend to wear more in the center, which needs to be corrected for even sharpening. Wet the stone and rub with the Blue Ceramic Flattening stone until flat (you can also use a sheet of silicon carbide sandpaper on a flat surface with a little water on the back).

Cleaning
Rinse with cold or luke warm water and air dry your stone before storing. Do not use hot water, soap or dry with a fan. Doing so may damage the stone.

Storage
Wet stones should be stored indoors room temperature in a clean, dry place. Do not store in water, direct sunlight or the cold garage.

Kramer Stropping Kit

These strops are set up in two stages to remove any remaining burr or wire edge and to give a very fine high polish to the blade's edge.

The following description is a general suggestion for achieving a high polished edge but you may want to experiment once you become comfortable with how the strops work.

Leather Strops:
There are two leather strops (rough and smooth) backed with a rubberized magnetic backing. The side marked "mag" goes on to the steel base.


Important Tips:
Go slow and easy with light pressure. Stropping does not require a lot of pressure.

ALWAYS move the knife in a 'backwards motion' on the strop. Do NOT push the edge into the leather.

Use the same 12-15 degree angle and approx. 4-6lbs of pressure.

Step-by-Step

- Rub the green chromium oxide block over the 'rough' leather strop.

- Remember to drag the knife BACKWARDS on the strop.

- On the 'rough' leather strop your blade 5-10 times on each side.

- Now switch out the rough strop with the smooth strop on the steel base.

- It is not important to use the green abrasive with this strop simply strop the knife again BACKWARDS 5-10 strokes per side. You should now have a highly polished edge.

Bob Tate

Bob Tate is a good friend who's been learning to sharpen with me for several years. He was a chef for 20 years, is passionate about food, wine, and of course, knives.

Visit his website for pricing and how to send in your knife.

Seattle Knife Sharpening
www.seattleknifesharpening.com

Bob Tate
(206) 465-6801

Woody

Set up in the Portland area, Woody has a truck that I wish I'd had when I was sharpening.

Woody worked with me to learn power sharpening, and is also a teacher at Oregon Culinary Institute.

Zen Blades Mobile Knife Sharpening
www.zenblades.com

Woody
(503) 816-3913

I've had to make the decision to stop sharpening knives. As much as I would like to offer this service, I no longer have enough time. For now, I've chosen to concentrate my energy on building custom kitchen knives.

Once again, to those of you who have sent me your knives over the years, thanks for your support.

Sincerely,
Bob Kramer